Wednesday, 29 July 2009

Laos: Good things come to those who wait

Four hours at immigration, we then managed to share a tuk tuk with 2 Canadians & a Yank into Laos capital city of Vientiane. Not quite sure how it is their capital, we were expecting something at least as big as Phnom Penh, yet all we saw before us were a few sparsely populated streets aligned with yet another murky river.

Traipsing around in the pouring rain, we looked at several shit to average accommodation options before un-earthing an out of season gem, described in our guidebook as ridiculously overpriced. A little bit of bargaining later and we were the proud owners of a nice little en suite room with fan & TV at the Dragon Hotel. One of the main reasons for taking this place was not only for its quality, price or location but because the hotels owner seemed so amazingly friendly, often answering any questions we had, offering up loads of useful Laos tips and also constantly topping up my new found love, coffee!

Being more expensive than we imagined, Vientiane was a transformation from our usual surroundings. Gone were the street stalls and conventional SE Asia shops, instead replaced with coffee bars, bistros and other trendy french inspired architectures.

With nothing apparent to do here we spent most of our time applying for a FREE 60 day visa at the Thai consulate. (5 days in total = 3 days waiting for the consulate to open due to Buddhist lent, 1 day that it took to apply for the visa and then another day to collect it.) and i thought Argos was bad! What a palaver.

Anyway, a trip to a nearby fountain, half a day by the pool and several hours of slow internet were equally balanced out with the all time classic "Joma Bakery", some nice falafel's and Jo discovering her new favourite drink - Spy Wine Cooler. No longer was she drinking 2 or 3 drinks to my 1. (Success!)

Eager to get to Vang Vieng for tubing, we boarded our impending 6 hour bus ride happy in the knowledge that our time here was not spent in vain as we had received a free 60day thai visa and had spent some much needed time relaxing and recuperating with our books.

VANG VIENG = AWESOME
No better way to describe our 2 nights here. Again, set in a cute yet lively surrounding, this part of Laos combined exactly what we liked about Hoi an with the exuberant nightlife of Bangkok. With constant Friends & Family Guy re-runs showing throughout the day/night, hours were spent lounging around bars on comfy sofa beds either eating large baguettes or picking up useful tips from fellow travellers.

Our main highlight here however has got to be Tubing. Scared by what she had seen the day before, Jo was a little dubious about participating in this water based pub crawl, but once we had signed her up and given her a life jacket, the horror stories she had been told soon faded away and upon setting out in our tubes we had soon made friends with some experienced tubing veterans.

Less than 5 minutes in and we were already hauled back out of the water and into our first bar. After my first drink at a little before 11am I was soon plucking up the courage to tackle the somewhat inappropriately named "slide of death" (yes people have in fact died on it, but god know how?). On my second attempt I finally managed to fly out of the end and into the water. Oblivious to my arrival, Jo even forgot to film it. Well it might have also had something to do with my life jacket getting caught the first time causing me to stop halfway down and then upon climbing back up the slide I was abruptly shoved back down at an alarming rate. Still girls hey! Typical!

In and out of bars 4 or 5 more times, each stopping to consume more beers and shots we finally reached the LAST bar. Warned that the remaining 30 minute ride into town along the river was often calmer and more boring, it was decided that we end our trip in style by slurping back a mushroom shake between the group. TRUST ME THOSE 30 MINUTES WERE NOT BORING AFTER THAT. Constantly laughing and in fits of giggles, Jo and I span down the river until we reached the end. Being pulled from the water by a group of Laos boys, we were unsure if it was in fact the end. With no apparent sign and a difficulty in language barrier, we decided to get back in. So much for the advice from the veterans to stop at the island! Seeing the town float by at a rapid rate of buildings per second, panic struck in and we were soon scrambling to our feet on a nearby shore. With nobody even batting an eyelid, it must be the norm round here!!!

To say this has been the highlight of our trip would probably be an insult but never the less, it was one hell of an amazing day, capped off by meeting a really great British couple that would accompany us on many more of our upcoming adventures.

Luang Probang. Drink like a fish for the price of water. After a much complicated mix up at the bus office, we were driven here by minivan, taking in the amazing scenery along route and at times literally with our head amongst the clouds. It really was beautiful. On arrival we found somewhere cheap to stay and scoped out our new uncharted territories.

Again, with not really that much to do here we went to the brilliant Kuang-si waterfall where we swam and saw bears. We also became entrapped by the night market here and took part in eating the great vegetarian buffet and on a few occasions buying more useless tat for people back home.

To say we drank here is somewhat of an understatement! We got pissed pretty much every night as the four of us (me, Jo, Leanne & Chris) devoured our way through towers of beer, endless bottles of wine and on one occasion even having a couple of table side BBQs. As the town itself closes at 12 midnight and bars closing at 11.30pm we soon sought refuge at the strangest of places for illegal/after hours drinking. Traveling by tuk tuk we arrived at the local bowling alley, strange i know but still a great way to end the evening. lol!!!

Due to a day long power cut and a few days of faulty atms, we ended up staying here a little longer than expected. However, it wasn't long until we descended on thai shores once more and after encountering a rather unpleasant 13 hour bus ride in which we stopped constantly to fix broken parts on the bus in shall I say less than shoddy DIY ways.

Oh well, our great time in Laos is over but after that bus journey, at least we can say we are still alive...

Friday, 24 July 2009

Connecting Cambodia to Laos; Bangkok Part #1 : This shit ain't Ping Pong!

After numerous days & conversations deliberating we finally decided to go to Laos, as long as we went on the route through Thailand (Jo). Finally, my long wait was over, all that stood in my way was a half day bus ride across the border to Bangkok, a few nights there and then a sleeper train to Laos. Would it be worth it? It most definitely would!

Still feeling the effects of her illness, the morning we left was not a good one for Jo. Desperately loo hopping at any given opportunity we were greeted at 9am (1 hour later than expected) by what can only be described as 'a shed on wheels'. The rickety wheeled, packed to death 10 hour bus journey had only just begun, yet I was already feeling guilty in putting Jo through this in her state as it was more than enough to suggest we should stay here an extra night until she recovered fully.

Soldiering on like the determined lady she is, once we reached the Thai border and had waited for our VIP bus to Bangkok, the trials and tribulations of the mornings journey had disappeared and she was beginning to feel a little better. Five minutes on our swanky new bus and we were soon hauled off the supposedly broken down vehicle (sure it was a scam due to not enough bums on seats) and placed into a minivan to Bangkok. Not quite the same luxury but it was funny listening to a traveling Korean girl suggesting that she would be happy to pay more money for being downgraded. MUPPET!

Arriving in Bangkok we immediately loved it and with our need for a big city once again firmly within our grasp we set out into its heart. Looking round several places we somewhat begrudgingly decided to check in for the night into somewhere slightly over budget but only until Jo had fully recovered. I'm still not sure if she was prolonging her sickness in order to negotiate our stay at Rambuttri Village Inn where they had an amazing roof terraced pool. Hmmmm, we will never know!

Having spent the next morning soaking up the sun and enjoying the roof top views from our lovely new pool, it soon became apparent that as Jo was feeling better from a decent nights sleep (air-con inc.) that we couldn't justify staying here any longer as not only was it extremely expensive but because we had so much to see in such little time. I mean we couldn't spend all our time here in Bangkok sat by the pool, could we? Moving across the Khao San and into a quiet little alley, our new home here would be conveniently named Happy House GH. A great place to hang our hat, half the price and one we will definitely stay in on our return to the city.

Four jam-packed days in this fast paced metropolis, we managed to take in several meals of muesli, fruit and yoghurt, a selection of coloured Thai curries and at least a gallon of Chang beer. Well and a few cocktails in Jo's case, and that was just our meals!

Musing about the impact this place would have on our ever depleting bank balance, we decided to sight see on our first trip here and shop on our second. That being the case we still managed to spend massive amounts of time wondering aimlessly up and down Khao San Rd, a full day in the city centre at the MBK & Siam Square shopping centres, mooching around Chinatown both day & night, the windy streets of Sampong Lane Market, Wat Pho (our only temple visit), The Golden Mound, Swinging Bridge, watching Thai Chi, Dance lessons & rollerblading in Lumphini Park and also even taking time out to visit local and national exhibitions at the Bangkok design & culture centre.

Participating in every mode of transport available, we can now proudly sya we have experienced the Bangkok Skytrain (a shit version of the DLR nowhere near the sky), the local metro system, trains, tuk tuk's, taxi's and even a nerve wrenching moment on the boat trip down the river where we both nearly fell into the river whilst boarding!

Our only negative side to our time here came when we decided to explore the exotic nightlife that Bangkok's Pampong district prides itself on. Well what an experience that was! After days of ignoring constant touting for various Thai delicacy shows we finally decided to check out a Ping Pong show. At the time we were told there would be no cover charge to get in and the drinks would be priced at 100 baht ($3), which in our eyes was reasonable given we were entering a dinghy-arsed strip club full of lady boys and ugly women firing off a plethora of tricks and toys from their nether regions. Having ordered a beer and a wine, 30 minutes later our bill had arrived and with it was all I can describe as being the scariest looking him/she bouncer I have ever seen. Demanding we hand over the somewhat strangely calculated fee of 2,500 baht we quickly backed down from a transcending argument, finally being robbed of the only money we had on us (1,500 baht) and we abruptly left the venue to much annoyance.

Looking back on it we probably knew it was going to happen but then again it turned out to be funny as even when we were refusing to pay, the girls on stage were still firing fireworks and ping pong balls at us.

Catching the sleeper train Jo so happily desired, our next destination would be to wake up and cross the border into Laos. Not nearly as good as the previous sleeper train but still clean and fun, getting a good nights sleep turned out to be imperative as our patience at the border was soon to be tested!

Wednesday, 8 July 2009

Tomb Raider inspired advenntures and harsh realities in Cambodia

Arriving into Phnom Penh we were expecting a somewhat different sight to that of what we were seeing. With more sides to it than a rubix cube, we found Cambodia's capital to be exotic, chaotic, compulsive and somewhat repulsive. I suppose it's like marmite in a way, you either love it or hate it!

Having trawled around two progressively bettering guesthouses, we finally decided to stay at a place called OKAY Guesthouse, the best we could find in our price range but suitable for all our needs...... quiet at night, atmospheric in the day and ram packed with Tuk Tuk drivers dedicated to drive you round the bend and up the wall!

Our 3 full days here were as usual packed full of sight seeing, drinking and soaking up the heat, managing to pack in the sights of the Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda, a trip round the National Museum, the shocking natures of the Tuol Sleng Musuem & Killing fields of Choeung Ek, the dizzy heights of Wat Phnom (joke) and many more temples, relics and cultural monuments. For a country so young into its tourist trade and packed with starving, homeless children, it sure does spend on some elaborate and ornate buildings!

Although we enjoyed our time here, it was somewhat of a hard hitting experience taking in exactly what had happened throughout the Khmer Rouge and also seeing the state at which certain things were in. One thing we regret but found extensively hard was our failure to do any volunteer work. Riddled with corrupt scams and the fact that we were trying to be charged $75 to some volunteer work for the afternoon aswell as our time, we somewhat reluctantly declined and felt bad for doing so. However, at least we can say we tried!

One special mention does go out however to Oscar at his self title named bar opposite our hotel where we spent many a night propping up the bar, endulging in great conversations and killing off any willing victims on the somewhat edgy pool table.

Being picked up at 7am on our fourth day here to the sound of a gangsta rap blarring mini bus, yet still trying to adjust to live without the late Michael Jackson (thanks for the text Gav), we set out to endure a 6 hour bus ride (cockroaches inc) before finally arriving in Siem Reap.

Known as the life support machine to Angkor's indiginous Temples, we were eagerly anticipating our stay here. Hooking up from the start with Vantha, our very own Tuk Tuk driver for our entire stay, we settled into an adequate guesthouse just off the main strip. A loveable and quant place, we found Siem Reap packed with both bars and restaurants of varying standards. Whilst one night raving about the quality of food in one Khmer restaurant we returned a few nights later to encounter a bad experience with Jo subsequently enduring 4 days of food poisoning. Not Nice! Apart from this, enjoying great nights out at Angkor What? bar (see the t-shirt) and Temple Bar where we watched some strange Khmer Apsara dancing and had good food, we drank ourselves late into the nights before rising early at 4am to take in sunrise, sunset and great times at the amazing temples of Angkor.

Spanning across two whole days, we took in both the smaller and larger circles, climbing and trekking around some of the National heritage's finest structures. Favourites included the massive Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider & Indiana Jones) & also the Bayon temple but with our informative and all round great guy/guide/driver, we did experience some great things here. Although we probably spent longer than expected here due to Jo's unexpected illness, we did at least meet some cool people (locals and backpackers), however the need for new adventures, air con & a bug free room (no toads, lizards, spiders, ants, beatles, mossies or general life) were much needed. All I can say is roll on Bangkok, if only for a few days before getting lost in Laos!

Southern & Central Vietnam: Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat, HCMC (Saigon) and the Mekong Delta

WOW! I would not recommend spending 14 hours on a train from Ninh Binh to Danang to anyone. Just don't do it! We did, and being sat upright for the entire journey, poked by peoples toes, crashed into by buffet carts and eaten alive by creatures isn't a nice experience. They at least say moments like these make you stronger and shape you as a person. All I know is we survived but god knows how!

As if risks stopped there, half asleep from our epic journey we decided to take the dodgiest looking taxi ever for our short trip to Hoi An. It was at least cheap if not illegal. Once we arrived we immediatley fell in love, I mean what a great place. Arriving into the blistering lunchtime heat we found a brilliant cheap hotel to stay that included both a pool and free breakfast. Meeting up with our friends Lara & Victoria, it was nice to have friendly faces available again to share our time here. Visiting the market at least twice a day in an attempt to find bargains, we purchased many presents for friends and family, alongside a few tailored delicassies for ourselves. One thing we didn't buy however was the somewhat glaring animal like meat presence that can be seen amongst our photos. Not sure if it was dead or alive we declined to stay a minute longer, heading directly out of the packed enclosure.

The weather here was fine, apart from scattered showers and 1 massive downpour, although most days hit mid 30's. With traditional Cao Lao Noodles and a very good chocolate milkshake often being our dietry requirements, we were not often short of food here either. Only time will tell if our attempted post will arrive back in england, but whatever happens our great time here will at least compensate for the 3 month wait to find out.

After our last experience of traveling through Vietnam, we decided that bus would be a more suitable mode of transport rather than train. This time we were not disappointed. Anyone who says sleeper buses in SE Asia are bad are either lying or just bad sleepers, I meamn even Jo managed to get a good nights sleep on one. Not sure what to expect from Nha Trang we arrived at a painful 6am, quickly checking in to a hostel from LP (Lonely Planet) and a few extra hours kip. With not too much culture or apparent sights to see in this touristy beach trap, the only thing on offer was to get drunk and hit the sands. Begrudgingly we decided upon doing exactly that!

Our two lazy days here were spent either playing pool, drinking huge buckets of cocktails with our 2 auzzie & 2 norwegian friends (mental people), chilling out on the beach or enjoying a much hyped overcrowded street festival. Thinking back, this was mainly crammed into pretty much one day as the hangover from the big night out kind of wiped us out for our 2nd day, thus being labelled by Jo as 'the hangover from hell' and possibly the worst ever partaken.

Slightly disappointed with what it had to offer here apart from the above, we departed for a few cheap nights in neighbouring Dalat - a quieter and cooler climated area of the country with many beautiful landscapees and adventures to be had. It was here where we really experienced the meaning of the easy rider!

Staying in a couple of dodgy establishments (one place wrongly named the 'peace' hotel for apparent reasons) and eating some varying qualities of cheap food, the words on everyones lips were, "You want motorbike? we are Vietnam Easy Rider". With no referance to be rude, but I mean Jesus, we didn't want to go the first time of asking let alone the last! Needless to say it became like the constant ringing in your ear, you know that really annoying one!

Already suffering from an ever increasing ear infection, we decide to take it a bit easier here, slowing the daily pace down and walking round yet more markets and waterfalls, but also enjoying the amazing structure that is the Crazy House.

Being attacked by a series of scruffy dogs and the lack of hot weather was beginning to take its toll, therefore after spending 4 nights here we felt obliged to head for HCMC, also known as Saigon.

Upon arrival in the Vietnamese capital, (better known for where Jeremy Clarkson started his adventure in the recent Top Gear documentary), we were pounced on by locals, similar to that of flies around shit. If that was not bad enough, the constant flow of grid locked traffic filled the streets(and pavements) making it almost impossible to manouver our way to a hotel. Once settled in our amazing new home just off the main strip with all the necessary ammentities and even a free roof terrace breakfast, we again felt prepared for what lie ahead.

Amongst our usual list of sightseeing attractions we managed to visit the very informative and educational War Remnents Museum & Reunification Palace, alongside other treats such as endless Pagodas & Temples, narrow cobbled markets, an old post office & Notre Damn Cathedral. Cultural I know, where is the fun you may ask? Well in conjunction to this our time was filled with lashings of cheap booze (30p for 2 beers), some tasty arse mexican and viuetnamese food, amazing cinematic experiences, nights out with our auzzie mates and best of all THE frozen Snickers Milkshake! Now that is stuff dreams are made of!

The Mekong. For our last few days in HCMC we booked a 2 day trip along the Mekong Delta. Set within amazing floating villages and hosting possibly the greatest floating market, this tranquil surrounding created a crazy insight into life here coupled with the enigmatic flavours of coconut candy and peanut popcorn. Searching through My Tho, Can Tho, Cai be & Vinh Long our incredible boat adventure was a great way to end what was an amazing three weeks in Nam.

With the greens so green, blues so blue and well everything dreams are made of, we would definitly highly recommend it to anyone, yet Ant I fear for you on two wheels, as we had more than enough trouble in four!